Shops in Caunes
Most local outlets close for 2-3 hours in the middle of the day. This can cause problems for shopper unused to this Mediterranean-style working day. If you start thinking about what you need for lunch at 12:30, then you’ve missed your chance to buy anything. However, they do stay open until about 7pm, so it is still possible to organize purchases for dinner quite late in the day.
Alimentation Marlene, Place de la Mairie, Caunes-Minervois
There are two sources of bread, croissants, etc. in Caunes: Marlène’s general store opposite the Mairie ( 5 mins. walk) has a full delivery every morning before 8 o’clock. Alternatively, the local baker sells from the bakery (6 mins or less). Their main outlet, with a bigger selection, is the Boulangerie (which also sells local wines) in Ave. du Minervois ( continue down main street, cross Argent Double bridge, and the Boulangerie is on the right after the Pharmacie). Open 7-12:30 and 4-7:15pm every day except Monday.
Ultimately, taste, and more to the point, texture preferences are highly personal, but the insides of the average French baguette have, in our view, deteriorated to a light and airy nothingness (as with bread the world over, the economic allure of fast-rising yeasts and automatic mixing has destroyed its substance). The Boulangerie does make a small range of “pain tradition” and slow-risen chewy bread is often on offer. At Marlène’s we favour the spiky “epis” (as mostly crusty outside) and the well-crusted and solid “paillasse”. But both outlets offer a wide range of shapes and sizes, enough to suite most tastes.
For truly excellent standard breads as well as some really interesting varieties (such as fig, or olive, or muesli), Carcassonne market is the place to go. The high quality and creative range is, however, offset by equally high prices (more like €4 rather than than €1, or less, for the standard baguette).
Marlène’s general store (8-12:10, 4pm-7:15, closed Sundays), as its name suggests, sells just about everything — dairy products, preserved and frozen meat and fish products, general foodstuffs (rice, pasta, canned foods, sugar, tea and coffee), cleaning supplies, fresh fruit and veg, and wines.
More ‘hardware oriented’ needs are likely to be satisfied at La Presse (down the main street, over bridge and its on the left – little more than 6 mins.). Much closer at hand is a butcher (about halfway down the main street on the left). Open 8-12:15 and 3-7:15pm, closed Sunday and Monday.
Bank
And for cash to buy all these commodities: there is an ATM outside the bank (a branch of Credit Agricole) on the Ave du Minervois (left side going down the main street) just before the bridge over the Argent Double (almost on the corner opposite the Café-Bar).
Petrol
Closest petrol (and very reasonably priced) is the Spar station almost opposite the Spar supermarket (which contains a good butchery, and open 9-12:30 then 3pm-7:30, and Sundays 9-12:30) on the main road through Peyriac towards Rieux (15 mins drive). Head up hill from Caunes towards Trausse and follow signs for Peyriac. Cross the bridge into Peyriac and continue up the road to T junction. Turn left on the road to Rieux. Spar complex is about half a mile or so, and before it is reached you will see the Tour St Martin wine cooperative on your left (well worth a visit: 9-12 and 2pm-7, closed Sundays).
Supermarkets
The nearest big supermarket (with a few other shops) is the Intermarché in the Pont Rouge area. About 20 minutes drive away: head down hill on main street towards Carcassonne. A mile or two out of Caunes you meet the main road from Peyriac, take it right. Continue through the villages of Villegly and Villalier to a major roundabout on the road from Carcassonne to Mazamet. Take the third exit towards Carcassonne. After about 1 mile you reach the Pont Rouge roundabout, take first exit to the Intermarché as well as a variety of other shops including a large Bio food shop.
Markets
All of the local villages hold weekly markets as well as regular ‘vide greniers’ (flea markets — usually advertised along the roads). Of course, they vary enormously and they vary from one time to the next. It’s a bit pot luck, but usually well worth investing an hour browsing the stalls, or just sitting with a coffee or glass of wine outside a cafe in order to spectate.
The following article, which is primarily a puff for Kate Mosse’s latest book (set in and around Carcassonne as is her more famous “Labyrinth” see http://www.maisonminervois.com/2009/06/relevant-reading/), extols the wonders of Olonzac market (about 30 mins from Caunes). From our experience many other markets are much better. Olonzac appears to be the epicentre of the Brit invasion and its market reflects this, which may not be why you chose to spend some time in rural France.
Guadian article 2010
Taxis
Jacques Magniet runs the local taxi service, running people around the Minervois region and also offering an airport shuttle service toCcarcassonne. He also speaks good English, Spanish and Italian. Check out his website for rates and other information. mobile: +33 (0) 670 374 885 office: 04 68 78 19 24
